History of Shinjuku
From a humble Edo-era post town to the world's busiest district — the story of Shinjuku.
Origins: Naito Shinjuku (1698)
The name "Shinjuku" (新宿) literally means "new inn" or "new post station." It was established in 1698 during the Edo period as Naito Shinjuku (内藤新宿), named after the Naito family, a daimyo clan whose residence occupied much of what is now Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden. The post station was built along the Koshu Kaido, one of the five major highways connecting Edo (modern Tokyo) to the western provinces.
As a post town, Shinjuku provided lodging, food, and rest for travelers and their horses. The area grew gradually throughout the Edo period (1603–1868), developing a reputation for entertainment — teahouses, theaters, and restaurants began to appear, laying the cultural foundation for the vibrant district we know today.
The Railway Revolution (1885)
Shinjuku's transformation began with the arrival of the railway. In 1885, the private Nippon Railway opened the Shinjuku Station as a small stop on the line between Shinagawa and Akabane (part of what is now the Yamanote Line). In 1889, the Kobu Railway connected Shinjuku to Tachikawa and the western suburbs, making Shinjuku a key junction between the city and the countryside.
The station's strategic location at the junction of the Koshu Kaido and the Ome Kaido highways made it a natural transport hub. As the rail network expanded, Shinjuku became the gateway for goods and people moving between Tokyo and western Japan.
Pre-War Growth: Shinjuku as Entertainment District
By the early 20th century, Shinjuku had evolved into a major entertainment and commercial district. Department stores opened, theaters flourished, and the area around the station became a bustling marketplace. The Shinjuku Historical Museum (in nearby Yotsuya) preserves artifacts from this era — including small toys played with by Edo-period children, traditional shops, and a full-size Showa-era streetcar you can step inside.
The 1923 Great Kanto Earthquake devastated much of Tokyo, but Shinjuku was relatively quick to recover. The disaster actually accelerated the westward expansion of the city, as businesses and residents moved from the devastated eastern areas to Shinjuku and other western districts.
Post-War Reconstruction: Black Markets and New Beginnings
World War II left Shinjuku heavily damaged. The area around the station was reduced to ashes. In the immediate aftermath of Japan's defeat in 1945, the west side of Shinjuku Station became a black market called Lucky Street — unlicensed stalls selling whatever could be sourced when almost nothing was available. This is the origin of Omoide Yokocho (Memory Lane), which grew from these post-war stalls and still retains its nostalgic Showa-era atmosphere today.
The 1950s and 1960s saw explosive growth. Kabukicho was developed as an entertainment district, department stores rebuilt, and the first skyscrapers began to rise. The area around the station became a labyrinth of underground passages and elevated walkways that exists to this day.
The Skyscraper Era: Nishi-Shinjuku (1960s–Present)
The 1960s marked the beginning of Shinjuku's transformation into a skyscraper district. The Tokyo government designated Nishi-Shinjuku (West Shinjuku) as a high-rise development zone, and the first wave of modern office towers went up. The Keio Plaza Hotel (opened 1971) was Japan's first skyscraper hotel. The Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building (completed 1991) became the district's iconic landmark, with its twin towers and free observation decks.
Today, Nishi-Shinjuku is one of Tokyo's premier business districts, home to the headquarters of major corporations, luxury hotels, and some of the city's tallest buildings. The area is quieter and more orderly than the chaotic energy of East Shinjuku, but it's equally essential to the district's identity.
Shinjuku Station: World's Busiest (Guinness Record)
Shinjuku Station has held the Guinness World Record as the world's busiest train station for decades. With over 3.5 million passengers daily across more than 200 exits and 12+ railway lines, it's a city within a city. The station has been rebuilt and expanded countless times, with each layer adding new underground passages, shopping corridors, and platforms. The current station is the result of over 140 years of continuous evolution.
Modern Shinjuku: Culture, Subculture, and Identity
Shinjuku is more than a business district — it's a cultural symbol. The neon-lit streets of Kabukicho have appeared in countless films, anime, and video games. The area is a backdrop for Lost in Translation (Park Hyatt Tokyo), the Yakuza video game series (Kamurocho is based on Kabukicho), and the anime The Garden of Words (Shinjuku Gyoen). The district's mix of tradition and chaos, old alleys and skyscrapers, makes it a unique symbol of modern Tokyo.
Shinjuku Ni-chome, the area's LGBTQ+ district, has been a center of queer culture in Japan since the post-war era. With over 300 bars and clubs in a few city blocks, it's recognized as having the highest concentration of gay bars anywhere in the world.
Historical Sites in Shinjuku Today
Shinjuku Historical Museum
Located in Yotsuya, this museum traces Shinjuku's history from prehistoric times to the present. Highlights include a full-size Showa-era streetcar and reconstructed traditional homes. Admission: ¥300.
Hanazono Shrine
A historic shrine dating back to the Edo period, predating the development of Shinjuku Station. It was the guardian shrine of the Naito family estate. Still hosts the annual Tori no Ichi festival. Read our guide.
Omoide Yokocho
A direct survivor of the post-war black market era. The narrow alley of yakitori stalls dates back to the 1940s and still retains its Showa-era character. A living museum of post-war Tokyo. Read our guide.
Shinjuku Gyoen
Originally the Naito family residence and garden, converted into an Imperial Garden in 1906, and opened to the public as a National Garden in 1949. The garden preserves the Edo-era landscape within the modern city. Read our guide.