Hanazono Shrine
A historic Edo-period shrine hidden in the heart of Kabukicho — guardian of Shinjuku for over 400 years.
A Shrine Hidden in the Chaos
Hanazono Shrine (花園神社) is one of the most remarkable spots in Shinjuku. Located in the absolute heart of Kabukicho — surrounded by neon signs, pachinko parlors, and entertainment venues — this historic shrine offers a profound, well-like quiet. The moment you pass under the great vermilion torii gate, the atmosphere shifts. The sound of traffic recedes, and all that remains is the rustle of ancient ginkgo trees and the sound of your own footsteps.
Hanazono Shrine is considered the Guardian God of Shinjuku. It has a history stretching back to before the Edo period, believed to exist even before Tokugawa Ieyasu entered Edo (the former name for Tokyo). The shrine was once part of the Imperial Palace Gardens and hosted several Shinto gods. Today, it remains a place of worship for local shop owners, office workers, entertainers, and tourists alike.
History of Hanazono Shrine
The name "Hanazono" (花園) means "flower garden." This entire area was once the flower garden of the Owari clan, and the shrine built here naturally took that name. Like many places in Tokyo, Hanazono Shrine has been destroyed by fire and rebuilt by its devotees multiple times over the centuries.
During the Edo period, the shrine grounds were used for theatrical performances, blending theater, festivals, and prayers. Because of this history, Hanazono Shrine is still revered as a place that enshrines the kami (deities) of Geinō (performing arts). It's a special place of pilgrimage for many actors, dancers, and musicians. Even today, you might see a musician with a guitar paying respects in the evening — a confirmation of its status as a haven for artists.
Deities Enshrined at Hanazono Shrine
Inari (稲荷)
The main deity of Hanazono Shrine. Inari is the god of fertility, rice, agriculture, worldly success, and foxes. Popular with businessmen seeking prosperity.
Itoku Inari (威徳稲荷)
Known as the god of matchmaking, married life, and having children. The small Itoku Inari Shrine within the grounds has its own red torii gate and is a popular spot for couples.
Geinou Asama (芸能浅間)
The god of entertainment and performing arts. Attracts people in the entertainment industry — actors, singers, dancers, and theatrical performers. The reason Hanazono Shrine has such deep connections to Tokyo's arts scene.
Yamato Takeru no Mikoto (日本武尊)
A legendary 4th-century Imperial Prince and a famous warrior in Japanese mythology. Associated with bravery and protection.
Uganomitama no Kami (倉稲魂命)
The god of food and agriculture. Associated with nourishment, abundance, and the harvest.
Tori no Ichi Festival
The Annual Festival of Prosperity
The Tori no Ichi (酉の市) is Hanazono Shrine's most famous festival. Held annually in November (on days of the rooster in the lunar calendar), it celebrates successful business and prosperity. The festival is famous for its kumade (熊手) — ornate, decorative bamboo rakes adorned with symbols of good fortune, gold coins, and lucky charms. Theatrical companies regularly hold performances on the shrine premises during this festival, continuing the tradition of blending arts and worship.
Visitors purchase kumade to "rake in" good fortune for the coming year. The larger and more elaborate the kumade, the more expensive — but the more fortune it is believed to bring. The festival is one of the most lively events in Shinjuku, with food stalls, performances, and crowds of businesspeople seeking blessings.
When: November (dates vary by year, check the official website). Admission: Free.
How to Visit & How to Pray
Gates & Access
Hanazono Shrine has two main entrances:
- Main approach (Meiji-dori side): A striking red torii gate serves as a welcoming landmark. This is the most dramatic entrance.
- Yasukuni-dori side: A weathered gray torii gate tucked between modern buildings. This is the quintessential Shinjuku scene — ancient spirituality squeezed between glass and steel.
The shrine is a 3-minute walk from Shinjuku-sanchome Station (Marunouchi / Fukutoshin Lines) or a 10-minute walk from Shinjuku Station East Exit.
How to Pray
- At the temizuya (purification fountain), rinse your left hand, then your right hand, then your mouth (optional), then the ladle handle.
- Approach the main worship hall.
- Place a coin (¥5 is traditional, as "go-en" sounds like "good connection") into the offering box.
- Bow deeply twice.
- Clap your hands twice (to wake the gods and express gratitude).
- Bow once more.
- Make your wish or prayer silently.
Seasonal Beauty
Spring (March–April)
Cherry blossoms cover the shrine grounds. The contrast between the shrine and the pink blossoms is one of the most beautiful scenes in Shinjuku. A popular spot for hanami (flower viewing).
Autumn (November)
The fallen leaves of the ginkgo trees spread like a golden carpet across the ground. Stunningly beautiful. The Tori no Ichi festival adds energy and color to the season.
Year-Round
The shrine is beautiful in every season. The ginkgo trees are stunning in late autumn, the cherry blossoms in spring, and the quiet serenity in winter. Even on a rainy day, the shrine has a mystical atmosphere.
Goshuin (Shrine Stamp)
Goshuin (御朱印) are ink stamps and inscriptions that serve as proof of your visit to a shrine or temple. Hanazono Shrine offers a beautiful goshuin that makes for a special travel memory. The stamp is available at the shrine office (osamedokoro) for a small fee (usually ¥300–500). Collecting goshuin is a popular activity among both Japanese and international visitors. Bring a goshuincho (special stamp book) or buy one at the shrine.
Flea Market & Antiques
On weekends, Hanazono Shrine sometimes hosts a small flea market. Vendors lay out vintage records, antique jewelry, and even handwritten poems. It's lively but never loud — a perfect example of Tokyo's rare "breathing spaces." Check the shrine's schedule for market dates.
Practical Information
- Address: 5-17-3 Shinjuku, Shinjuku-ku, Tokyo 160-0022
- Nearest Station: Shinjuku-sanchome Station (3-minute walk), Shinjuku Station (10-minute walk)
- Hours: Open 24 hours (shrine grounds are always accessible)
- Admission: Free
- Goshuin: Available during shrine office hours (typically 9:00–16:00)
- Photography: Allowed on the grounds. Be respectful during prayer times.